Deconstructing the Dolce and Gabbana, Givenchy, and Gaultier “religious” collections: Offensive or an expression of faith?
Gaultier
​Jean Paultier Gaultier, the French designer that has revolutionized fashion through his iconoclastic previous collections, presented in 2007 a unique collection that incorporated elements from Christianity, in specific the Virgin Mary. In previous collections Gaultier created controversy with collections that harshly criticized the Catholic Church. However this time around, the collection takes inspiration from the Virgin Mary as an icon of femininity and purity. From Madonna (Pop singer) to the Virgin Mary, Gaultier has always found his ideal place between religion and pop culture.
Virgin Mary as an Icon
I would argue that after the crucifix, the paintings and sculptures of the Virgin Mary represent the second most recognizable icon of Christianity. The difference is that the Virgin Mary comes in multiple shapes. The image of the different versions of the Virgin does not only changes in clothes, but also her race, facial features and skin colour. Nevertheless, the Virgin Mary remains recognisable at large. “We see her if we do not know what she looks like, and we are taught what she looks like by community, from images that have evolved in and are recognized by it(11)”. From the Virgin of Guadalupe in Mexico to the Black Holy Madonna the power of the image of the Virgin Mary is able to adapt to any region. This adaptation was in part to the efforts to convert non-believers during the colonization periods, providing a feeling of self-identification. “A Mary who is not recognizable is not cognizable. In order for her to be really real, she must reprise what is known about her looks and at the same time display something specific for that particular appearance(12)”. Jean Paul Gaultier plays with this idea, featuring numerous virgins inspired mostly by statue representation playing with the idea of one virgin, different looks.
Mexican Virgin of Guadalupe
Episcopate of Mexico
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Circle of stars
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What does, The Jean Paul Gaultier fashion collection, the flag of the European Union, and the original 12 Colonies have in common? A kind of difficult question, but just by taking a simple look to the stars is featured in the three variables, is easy to notice that their common link is the Circle of Starts. “In the Catholic tradition, stars are around the head of the Virgin Mary. The stars stem from the belief that twelve is the symbol of perfection and of what is unchangeable(13)”. This halo of stars has had a major influence throughout history and it could also be seen on the logo of Paramount Pictures, proving how this Christian element has deeply permeated popular culture. The halo of stars is one of the many variables presented in the multiple representations of the Virgin Mary. In this collection the halo of stars is accompanied by a white power blazer that could be interpreted as the new female liberation, using the Virgin Mary as a symbol of power.
Immaculate Heart
Among the many elements seen on this runway. A heart with sword across is probably one of the most eye-catching object in the runway. “The Immaculate Heart is almost invariably pictured aflame, ringed with roses or lilies (symbolizing heavenly joy and purity, respectively) The sword piercing the heart illustrates a verse from the Gospel of Luke: ‘And a sword will go through your heart; so that the secret thoughts of men may come to light’ (14)” This is a quite interesting case, since the heart, is the only representation of a body organ exposed in Christian religious representations and on the fashion runway.
